jSF 453 

i.R55 

1921 




R I C H E VS 

Rabbit and 
C avy B ook 

mncu and uidtiij breods 





MRS. C. A. RICHEY 



RICHEY'S 

Rabbit and Cavy 
Book 



FOURTH EDITION 



A Complete text book of the Rabbit 
and Cavy Industry 



PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED 



Price, 75c. 



'lilii!:( 



EDITED BY MRS. C. A. RICHEY 
Los Angeles, California 



Published by 

GERMAIN ,SEBD AND PLANT CO., 

Los Angeles, Calif. 

1921 



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A- 



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Copyright 1921 

by 

Germain Seed & Plant Co. 

Los Angeles, California 



0)CU624793 

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INTRODUCTION 

Owing to the first, second and third edition of The 
Rabbit Book being so favorably received by the public in 
general, it has become necessary to publish a fourth edition, 
which has been revised, enlarged and bettered in every 
way possible. It is hard to realize the wonderful strides this 
industry has made during the past ten years in all its 
branches : meat, fur and fancy ; for in this, as in every un- 
dertaking, the American will not go half way — "The best 
is none too good for us." This is a text book of facts 
and help, condensed in as small space as possible — a hand 
guide. I claim the indulgence of the "scientific" breeders, 
and thank all those who have helped me with their knowl- 
edge and advice on the different breeds. 

To Mr. Charles Neidhardt of San Jose, Cal., I must give 
especial thanks for the loan of most of the cuts and the 
benefit of his great knowledge of the rabbits. In studying 
the writings of different people we save ourselves much 
labour and many disappointments. 

This book will put the novice on the right track both in 
a small or large proposition. 



REMARKS 

In writing and compiling this book, with few ex- 
ceptions, I have given the actual experience of almost ten 
years constant study and association with fanciers of the 
different breeds. 

This book was selected (as being the most concise and 
understandable of all the books on Rabbits) for the Text 
Book of the Los Angeles schools. 

I do not wish to hold out any ridiculous inducements 
financially, (it is no "get rich quick" scheme) but can be 
made both profitable and enjoyable to the lover of animals, 
and the Out Door Life. 

Domestic rabbit meat is eaten and enjoyed by many 
millions all over the Country, and is an Industry that has 
come to stay as in the Cities the meat is much in demand, 
bringing a good price all the year round. 

It is equal to the Domestic fowl and can be cooked 
in the many different ways, and is considered even more 
delicate and nutritious, and more easily digested than any 
of the meats, a delicacy that the man of limited means can 
supply to his family, at a small cost of labor and capital. 
and a hobby for the admirer of pure bred fancy animals with 
only a few feet of ground at his command. 

We are now interested in the RABBIT FUR, common- 
ly called "Coney," and when properly understood, will be a 
profitable item of this rabbit game, and so from this one 
small animal we have meat for your table, fur to keep you 
warm, and fertilizer for your garden. 

The raising of Fancy Rabbits is great sport, and every- 
one should have a hobby. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 



Hares 11 

Origin of the Domestic Rabbit 12 

Different Breeds of Rabbits 13 

Breeding 34 

Feeding 39 

Marketing Stock : 44 

Advice to the Beginner 45 

Hutches 46 

Rabbits and Their Fur 51 

The Fur Rabbit 55 

The Shows 57 

The Rabbit as Food 59 

Cooking the Rabbit 60 

Rabbit Diseases 61 

Recipes for Cooking Rabbits 67 

Cavies 73 




NEW ZEALAND RABBIT FUR 

Bred, Tanned and Made by Mrs. C. A. Richey, R. 7, Box 854 

Los Angeles, Cal. 



RicJicv's Rabbit and Cavy Book 11 



Hares 



Hares and rabbits are entirely different breeds, and it is 
said that hares bred to rabbits fail to produce "any offspring. 
Anyhow, it is a known fact that the domestic rabbit of today 
is different from the hare. The well-known Belgian hare is a 
rabbit, and not a hare. Rabbits have dewlaps, which is the 
natural fullness or enlargement of the neck of the breeding 
doe. Hares do not have dewlaps. The Belgian has dewlaps, 
very slightly or not at all, as great care has been given to 
its breeding to make it resemble the wild hare in shape 
and characteristics as much as possible. 

The young of the wild hare are born with eyes open, 
and will eat as soon as they are born, the common wild hare 
and jack rabbit are enormously prolific, and become a pest 
to the farmers, as they are so destructive to crops. 

In Europe the hare is considered a great luxury, and is 
to be found on the table of the rich man alone. The price 
of a wild hare in the old country is $1.50 to $2.00 each, and 
here in America they are slaughtered by the millions and 
left to waste, while many poor families in the cities have 
scarcely any meat. But the Americans have come to 
realize the value and possibilities of the domestic rabbit, 
and it is here to stay, both as an article of food and as a 
hobby — this is referring to the jack rabbit drives in Cali- 
fornia 



12 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 



Origin of the Domestic Rabbit 



Rabbits, as members of the group scientifically known as 
"Leporidae," are probably the most interesting of that 
great animal division, the Rodentia, or chisel-toothed mam- 
mals. They are able to adjust themselves to practically any 
climate or condition. Their food embraces nearly all 
forms of vegetable life, and their teeth, growing from the 
roots, adjust themselves to natural wear, their sight 
meets all demands of both day and night, their fecundity 
is astonishing, and their flesh is among the highest in nu- 
tritive food value. They are the cleanest of all domestic 
animals and birds, and do not require as much room in 
which to live and thrive. 

There are many different varieties of domestic rabbits at 
the present time, all originating from the wild rabbits of 
Europe — "Lepus Cuniculus." It has taken many years to 
produce the different breeds as we know them at the present 
time, ?.nA it would take a large volume to describe all this 
work in all its details. There are only a few of the breeds ot 
which the origin is positively known, as in all sciences there 
are many conjectures and theories. Each different breed origi- 
nated from a "Hybrid" or "sport." These sports are care- 
fully bred for several generations until the characteristics 
have been fully established, and they breed perfectly 
in type and color. With some of the breeds this has proved 
to be more difficult than others — hence the word "fancier." 

Rabbits have been domesticated for several centuries. It is 
believed they were bred in China in the time of Confucius 
(sixth century before Christ) and known on the European 
continent in 1557. The wild rabbit is small and usually 
weighs from two and a half to three pounds; the domestic 
rabbit has been carefully bred up to as high as twenty-one 
pounds. 



Richcv's Rabbit and Caz'v Book 



13 



Different Breeds 



There are seventeen different breeds of rabbits in the 
American Standard of Perfection at the present time. As a 
breed is perfected it will be added to the Standard, and each 
year will, no doubt, bring some new breed to perfection in 
this country, for the American is a true sport and never 
does things by halves. Although the rabbit industry is still 
in its infancy, we have already some beautiful specimens 
created by men who foresaw the coming popularity of this 
work. About twenty years ago there was a Belgian Hare 
craze in America, which only lasted a short time, in which 
they were treated as pets. People very soon became tired of 
the trouble and expense of them, but, of course, there re- 
mained a number of those in the country who liked the 
hobby and so kept it up, and when the price of meat kept 
soaring, these ingenious persons saw a means of making ? 
fine business that would benefit themselves and others. So 
rabbit raising was started again in real earnest and has be- 
come one of the industries of this country as well as Europe. 
In a short time we shall have breeds in America the same as 
across the water, and we shall be exporting instead of im- 
porting. 

THE FLEMISH GIANT 

The Flemish Giants are the largest and heaviest of the 
rabbit family, averaging twelve to thirteen pounds, and 
many fine specimens weigh from fifteen to sixteen pounds ; 
occasionally as high as twenty pounds. The Standard calls 




STEEL GRAY FLEMISH DOE 



14 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 



for not less than thirteen pounds for bucks, and does as 
much over thirteen pounds as possible. The body should 
be long and powerful — a giant in every sense of the w^ord. 




WHITE FLEMISH GIANT 



Grays, color uniform all over body, and under tail and belly 
as w^hite as possible. The head should be large and well 
shaped, color same as body, ears large, eyes medium size 




LIGHT GRAY FLEMISH BUCK 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 15 

and dark brown. At four months they should weigh eight 
to nine pounds ; six months, ten to eleven pounds, and as 
much more as possible. Flemish do not mature until they 
are fifteen months old. Colors are dark gray or steel, light 
gray, blue, black or white. They, with the Belgian, 
are the oldest and most well-known breeds in all the 
countries. 

ORIGIN 

The origin of the Flemish is more or less shrouded in 
mystery. In Flanders, France, previous to the Franco- 
Prussian war, the inhabitants had a domestic rabbit, weigh- 
ing about twelve pounds, heavily boned, grey to steel 
gray in color, which they claimed had been produced by a 
cross of the native "Lepus Cuniculus," a common wild rab- 
bit, with the "African Lop Ear." This rabbit was known in 
Flanders as the "Normandie Giant." A rabbit of almost 
similar type, but browner in color, was being raised in Bel- 
gium. In Germany they had a rabbit somewhat resembling 
our heavy weight Belgian of today, but lesser weight. This 
was known as the Ge-he-ge. The best French and German 
authorities agree that the Giant de Flanders, or Flemish 
Giant, originated in a cross of the above mentioned types. 
The English, admiring the size and possibilities of this 
handsome animal, imported them into their own country 
and commenced breeding to perfect the color and type. It 
was from England the Americans got their first start of 
the Flemish, but much yet is to be done to perfect the 
breed from a fancier's standpoint. A doe rarely has a litter 
all one color. They are usually the two shades of gray, and 
some black. Dark steel gray is the color most sought by the 
fancier, and the uncertainty of the breeding is what makes 
it so interesting. Some day, no doubt, they will get to the 
stage of breeding true, the same as other types. 

BREEDING THE FLEMISH 

In breeding the Flemish size is the greatest consideration, 
and as the grays are a much larger animal and the buck of 
steel gray a much handsomer color, the doe giving size, and 
the buck color, the scientific breeder takes the largest gray 
doe and breeds her to the finest steel buck, passing on to 
their progeny the desired color and weight. Specimens for 
the show room should be a perfectly even color. No rusty 
patches, and no solid black on any of the steels. A silver 
tip is a solid black Flemish with white hairs sprinkled all 



16 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 



over the body, making a handsome fur for wraps. The blue 
Flemish is a little darker shade of blue than the American, 
more of a slate blue. All Flemish are now in the Standard of 
Perfection. The White Flemish is a pure, clear white all 
over the body and pink eyes. Each color is bred to conform 
with the same standard as the gray type, large and massive. 

An eight-months' class is given the Flemish in the show- 
room, thus giving the breeder a chance to win with a fine 
specimen that otherwise could not compete with the Senior 
class. 

CHECKERED GIANT 

The Checkered Giant is a handsome animal and is be- 
coming extremely popular. Its markings are very beautiful, 
on the same order of the Black and White English rabbit, 
but splashes instead of spots; having the black across the 




CHECKERED GIANT 



nose in the shape of a butterfly. A black line should extend 
from the back of the neck with uniform markings on each 
hind quarter, and colored eye-circles and ears. They are bred 



Ridirx's Rabbit and Caz'v Book 



17 



in blue, black, tortoise, and with gray markings on a white 
body. Standard weight is similar to that of the Flemish. 
The fur is good but somewhat coarser than the smaller 
breeds. 

THE BELGIAN HARE 




"RED BIRD"— RUFOUS RED BELGIAN 

The so-called "Belgian Hare" is the most widely known 
of any rabbit. In spite of being called a "hare," it is a 
rabbit, the name hare being given to it on account of its 
resemblance to a wild hare in the shape of the head, ears 
and body, and the lively appearance of its eyes, and build. 
It originated in Europe, of course, but exactly how is not 
known. To the English must be given the credit for its 
perfection at the present day. The boom this breed had in 
America some twenty years ago caused it to lose many 
friends at the time, but it is fast regaining its popularity, 
for it is a truly beautiful animal, more graceful than any of 
the breeds, with its long racy body, and bright eyes. It is 
also said to be the most intelligent of all, and can be taught 
little tricks, such as posing, etc. 



18 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 



Standard weight of Rufus Reds should be eight 
pounds ; color, a rich, dark cherry, or mahogany red, 
the color uniform over head, ears, chest, feet and body, ex- 
tending well over the hind quarters, and down the sides, 
and be covered with a rich, wavy, ticking, also creamy belly, 
as dark as possible, ears to match body, with a dark mark 
around the edge, 5 inches in length, medium thickness and 
good color. 

The breeders should be raised in long hutches, with 
hurdles and boxes to jump over to give them the long racy 
appearance so much admired in the show room. The Rufus 
is one of the most delicate of all the rabbits on account of 
its being inbred for many generations, and care should be 
taken not to crowd the young. They can stand plenty of 
cold weather, but must be kept dry. They are delicious eat- 
ing, but not so popular as a meat rabbit on account of the 
size. There is a so-called Giant Belgian raised for the mar- 
ket. It is a cross between the Flemish and Rufus Red Bel- 
gian, and it makes a hardy rabbit for that purpose, 

THE ANGORA 




A PERFECT TYPE 

The Angora district of Asia Minor has climatic condi- 
tions which produce certain peculiarities in the pelage of 
the domestic animals. Goats, sheep and cats trace their 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 19 

origin from there. One of the most remarkable is the rab- 
bit. The peculiar characteristics of the An^-ora rabbit are 
its tendencies toward albinism, or complete loss of color, 
and the replacement of hair, with a soit, silky wool. The 
wool or fleece has long been recognized throughout Persia 
and other parts of Oriental Europe, as a commodity of con- 
siderable value. For instance, the finest grades of Cashmere 
shawls, and certain peculiar kinds of thread, more or less 
highly prized, are derived from the clipped wool of the An- 
gora rabbit. It is not unusual to see specimens of this ani- 
mal with wool six inches in length. The industry has some- 
what declined in later years, but is still being carried on in 
southern European countries, the clipped wool reaching as 
high as twelve marks ($3.00) per pound. The American 
and English fanciers raise and breed the Angora mostly as 
an ornamental rabbit, notwithstanding that their meat is as 
good, their prolificacy as great, and their pelage more valu- 
able than others of the ornamental and utility types. The 
pelt of the Angora rabbit, though not a true fur, if in good 
condition should bring twenty-five cents in the raw state, 
before being tanned. But they must have been kept in good 
condition in regard to their coat — which should be brushed 
during the period of shedding to stop the matting of the 
wool, as this prevents the new wool from coming out nice 
and long. These animals are extremely gentle and excellent 
mothers, also the best of foster mothers, and v ry hardy. 

The standard weight of the Angora is over six pounds, 
with short, chubby body, fine broad head, short ears, tufted 
on the ends, and tail and feet should have a fringe of 
wool hanging from them. The white ones have pink eyes. 
They are bred in different colors, some of them very 
beautiful, blues, blacks, orange, fawn, and grays. The black 
are usually smoky colored. The length of the wool should 
be from two and one-half to five inches in length. In groom- 
ing them a wire hair brush such as women use, is the best. 
Brush against the hair, starting behind the ears and ending 
at the tail, then vice versa, lastly blowing and fiuft'ing up. 

NEW ZEALAND REDS 

The New Zealand Red rabbit as we know it today is very 
different to the specimens we started with in 1913. At that 
time they were lighter colored, white underneath, with large 
white eyecircles. Now they are a beautiful reddish brown, 
a very rich color, very small eye circles, in some cases 



20 Ridley's Rabbit and Cary Book 

scarcely any; ears clean, soft and like a pink shell inside; 
SVz inches long is the standard; a bright hazel eye; medium 
broad head and creamy belly, longish body with broad 
hindquarters, making the breed an ideal meat rabbit, the 
bones are small, meat fine grained and juicy. A rabbit that has 




"Red Rhoda" 

New Zealand Doe 

Line bred from 1914 winners by Mrs. C. A. Richey 

been accepted all over the country as a rare type most profit- 
able to the meat raiser, and the possibilities of getting the 
beautiful color and type has appealed to the Fancier, until we 
have — when properly bred — one of the most admired and 
beautiful of any of the breeds. 

THE ORIGIN 

The origin of the New Zealand has caused much contro- 
versy all over the country; there are always a few who want 
to be the IT in anything of this kind, yet no one can find 
out how this breed came by its name — New Zealand. Some 
say there are no rabbits of this description in New Zealand. 
I expect it all depends on what part of the country the 
parties claiming this knowledge came from. A man came to 
see my rabbits some years ago and was extremely surprised 
to see the New Zealand. He had just come from that coun- 
try and said he had seen them by the thousands in the 
market, but much smaller than mine. They naturally would 
be in their wild state as they breed too young and bring up 



Ridley's Rabbit and Caz'y Book 21 

large litters. I also know a Scotchman who raised them 
in Scotland when he was a boy. There they called them 
sandy rabbits on account of their color. 

Many years ago a number w^ere taken from Scotland to 
New Zealand and turned loose to propigate, which they 
surely did, and there is no doubt that is where we got the 





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NEW ZEALAND BUCK 

A Fine Meat Type and a Decendant of Many Famous Winners 

Owned by Mrs. C. A. Ricliey 

Start from on the Pacific coast. Someone brought them, but 
who, no one has ever been able to say. The chap must 
have died or disappeared some how, or he surely would have 
said something in answer to all that has been said and 
written about them. Some claim to have made the breed, 
but it is doubted by all New Zealand breeders, as of all 
breeds they breed true to color and type, excepting being 
inclined to white ; the dark ticking we have had to fight in 
some strains, I believe, was introduced by crossing with 
Flemish to produce size, as it does not come in all, and is 
so easy to breed out. It takes several years to produce an 
animal of standard characteristics, so we know the New 
Zealand is an old timer much improved by careful breeding. 

THE WHITE NEW ZEALAND 

We have now a new breed — that is new to us — called 
the White New Zealand; originated by Mr. W. S. Preshaw. 
Ripon, Cal. ; having the type of the New Zealand, but a 



22 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 

pure white coat with pink eyes. It is a very pretty animal 
and one of the most gentle I have ever handled, making 
excellent mothers, and very prolific. In fact all New Zea- 
lands are such, but the white are even more gentle than the 
reds. The fur is of fine quality and compares with the Hima- 
laya for wearing apparel, and I am sure they are going 
to be as popular as the reds. 

WEIGHT 

The standard weight of the New Zealand Reds is 9 
pounds for bucks, and 10 pounds for does, but we seldom 
see a doe weighing over 9 to 9^2 pounds unless she is too 
fat. White are smaller. For awhile a few breeders wished 




WHITE NEW ZEALAND 

Originated by Mr. W. S. Preshaw, Ripon, Ca|. 

to push the weight, but what are we to gain. They give us 
nice fry at the age of 9 to 12 weeks, and the butchers will 
not take them for frys over two pounds, and prefer one and 
one-half pounds. This is on account of the high price. When 
we can produce a rabbit for the table at, say, 35 cents per 
pound retail, a three-pound rabbit will sell as easily, and 
better, than a one and one-half pound now. Sixty and sixty- 
five cents per pound is an awful price, and that is what they 
have been all the winter in Los Angeles, but as long as feed 
keeps such a price we cannot produce them and make any- 
thing for ourselves at much less per pound than we are now 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cav\ Book 



23 



getting-. To the small raiser for the family it will pay, as 
such luxuries are out of the question in a large family if 
they have to buy at the market retail prices. 

So here's to the New Zealands ! May they keep and in- 
crease their popularity for future generations. They have 
certainly been a profitable game to me. 

STANDARD 

Color, rich, reddish Buff all over body and legs, creamy 
belly. Hazel eyes, circle small, ears 5^2 inch — head medium 
broad. 




HIMALAYAN BUCK 

George Sr. 1st and Special Bred by the Hackett Himalayan Fur 
Farm, Oakland, Cal. 



THE HIMALAYAN 

Here is another beautiful rabbit whose origin is un- 
known. It is supposed to have originated north of the 
Himalayan Mountains, and are to be found in parts of 
Russia, China and Northern India. It is one of the sweet- 
est and daintiest of all rabbits. Its wonderful fur, so near 
like the famous expensive Ermine, makes it a profitable 
animal, as well as a joy to raise. It has been known under 
a number of different names, but it is very strange that an 
animal should be given such an odd name as Himalayans 
unless it was at one time connected with the Himalayan 
country in some way, and it will without doubt keep that 
name now to the end of rabbit history. 

Quite a large number of Americans have taken to raising 
this odd little animal, more so, it is claimed by an authority, 
than any other fancy breed, 'on account of its beauty and 
value of the pelt. Its color is pure white with thick, short 



24 



Richev's Rabbit and Cavy Book 



fur, and black nose, ears, legs and pink eyes. They do 
not get these dark markings until three weeks old. Then a 
faint mark will appear, gradually getting larger until the 
rabbit is three months old. They are in the prime of fur 
at five to eight months of age. 

The treatment of the pelt should be attended to care- 
fully, as therein lies its value. To imitate the Ermine, the 
pelt should be stripped carefully to avoid tearing the skin. 
It should then be placed in the shade and stretched over a 
piece of wood of the proper size to make it dry evenly. 
When dry the skins should be laid away with moth balls, 
in a tight fitting box, until they are ready to be sent away 
or tanned. 




HIMALAYAN DOE 

Maid of the Mill — Champion. Five Specials Bred by Hackett 

Himalayan Fur Farm, Oakland, Gal. 



Weight should be four pounds, with body long and 
slender. They should not be heavy when raised for ex- 
hibition, and great attention is paid to the markings, which 
should be even and of a solid color, as nearly black as pos- 
s'ble, mark on nose the shape of an egg, feet black to 
first joint — when shedding the black will turn brown and 
sometimes eye spots will appear — a discoloration over the 
eye — impossible to account for. 



BLACK AND TAN 

Here again is a rabbit that owes its origin to the English 
pet stock lovers. The Black and Tan ; they also come in 
Blue and Tan, is a small rabbit not over four pounds. They 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 



25 




BLACK AND TAN RABBIT 

are purely a fancy breed, and very beautiful. Much care 
must be given to the breeding- to produce the right colors, 
which should be blue or black in uniform color, rich and 
glossy, eyes to match body color, the tan to be deep and 
rich ; shape Dutch type. 



THE POLISH 

The Standard calls for a rich, pure white, weight three 
pounds, fur short, fine and silky, eyes large, bold and blood 
red. A breed very little known in America. 




POLISH 



26 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 



ENGLISH AND FRENCH LOPS 

The Lopeared rabbit is quite a curiosity in most parts 
of America, as it is among the latest to be taken up by the 
fancier, although it is an old breed both in England and in 




ENGLISH LOP 



France, and can be traced back a great many years. It is 
bred in all the different colors and is a fine table rabbit, the 




FRENCH LOP 



Riclicv's Rabbit and Caz'v Book 



27 



wonderful part of the breed being the enormous ears, some 
measuring 27 by 634 inches. Standard weight of the EngUsh 
calls for ten pound bucks; does eleven pounds. 

When kindling, their nest box must be large' and they 
should not be allowed to raise more than two or three to a 
litter. At four months the ears should be about ten to eleven 
inches ; if any less they will not amount to anything for the 
show room. Be sure to watch the does with the buck, as a 
bite or a scratch on the ear would disfigure them. They are 
hardy rabbits and feed the same as others of their kind, but 
must be kept warm. The ears should fall gracefully on each 
side of the head. The English has a massive body and 
smallish head, large bright eyes, and a gentle disposition. 
The French are the same but smaller in size, and ears are 
smaller. 

THE DUTCH 

The Dutch originated in Holland, as the name would 
imply, and is very odd and beautiful. Half the body is solid 
color and half pure white, nose is white, with solid color 
around the eyes, divided through the head by the white. 
Standard weight is five pounds and under, with short limbs. 
The ears are erect, solid color, same as body. Eyes hazel 
in blacks, and to match body in other colors, and hind feet 
should have clean, white boots one and one-half inch on both 
feet. 




THE DUTCH 



28 Rickey's Rabbit and Caz'y Book 

Dutch are bred in black, blue, tortoise and gray. On the 
Pacific Coast they are not plentiful, but will be a great favor- 
ite when better known. They breed true and are excellent 
foster mothers. 

The Dutch are the best foster mothers to be had, for some 
reason they give an enormous quantity of milk of 
good quality and will take any rabbit no matter what breed 
to mother, consequently they are kept by fanciers for nurse 
does. 



THE AMERICAN BLUE 

Here we have a new old rabbit, new in name but a com- 
bination of the old Vienna Blue, Imperial, and blue Flemish. 
Mr. Louis Salisbury, Judge and Fancier, is responsible for 
the perfection of this wonderful rabbit called — blue^ — but is 
really what is termed in dressgoods a color called Taupe — a 
grayish or maltese blue, very handsome for trimming dresses 




AMERICAN BLUE 

and coats. It is also a fine meat type and a handsome ani- 
mal, with large broad hindquarters, a typical meat breed. Ten 
pounds is the standard weight of this rabbit. It is not a giant, 
but a medium sized, useful rabbit easy to handle. They are 
healthy and prolific, making excellent mothers, in breeding 
for perfection the following standard must be closely fol- 



Ridley's Rabbit and Caz'y Book 29 

lowed to get away from the lung bodied Flemish. The type 
size and shape of the American Blue is very similar to the 
now famous Blue Beveren of England. Pelt is usually in its 
prime for fur at five months. 



STANDARD FOR AMERICAN BLUE 

SHAPE — Mandoline, compact, broad, meaty back 
slightly arched back, not flat, medium size bones, 
small dewlap as possible 20 

COLOR — Rich, clear maltese blue, with as great depth of 
color as possible. Should be free from all white hairs, 
sandy, or rusty colors and uniform over the feet, legs, 
chest, head, ears, body and tail 25 

WEIGHT— Bucks and does at maturity, 10 pounds 10 

HEAD — Well shaped, not too long; even color 5 

EYES— To be blue 5 

EARS — About five inches in length, narrow, well set on 

and even color 5 

Well developed thighs 10 

LEGS and FEET — ^Straight, medium size, dark toe nails 10 

CONDITION — Coat to be free from any stray colored 
hairs, with dense, soft fine, silky texture, flesh firm. 

Disqualifications — White patches of hair, crooked feet, 
legs or tail; any other colored eyes but blue or lop 
ear. Faults to be severely cut but not disqualified; 
stray white hair, sandy or rusty, or any other foreign 
colored hair, uneven color on body, legs or loins. 
Rough or uneven coat. 

The above Standard gives a splendid word picture of this 
wonderful fur and meat-producing rabbit. Your attention is 
immediately drawn to it, because of the beautiful rich blue 
coat. 



THE BLUE IMPERIAL 

The Blue Imperial rabbit originated in England and was 
bred and introduced by a woman. The color, blue, is what is 
commonly called Maltese, a smoky blue, sometimes with a 
brownish tinge, which is not good. It should be clear and 



30 



Richev's Rabbit and Cavv Book 



clean looking. Standard weight, seven pounds. Shape is 
similar to the Belgian, but shorter limbs, eyes large and 
bright, to match color of body, which should be blue all over. 

The Blue Imperial has had to give way to the American 
Blue in this country, so we see very few of these once popu- 
lar rabbits. 




BLUE IMPERIAL 



THE "ARGENT D'CHAMPAGNE" 
French Silvers 

The "Argent de Champagne," one of the most beautiful 
of the ornamental breeds are becoming very popular, the fur 
being one of the most attractive of the rabbit family and the 
most expensive in the stores. It is a small rabbit, the Stand- 
ard calling for six pounds, but is a good meat type, having a 
short, plump body with broad hind quarters and can be bred 
up in size by the careful breeder. Care must be used in breed- 
ing for the standard to get a perfect coat, which should have 
a pepper and salt effect with a silvery sheen, and a light gray- 
ish blue undercolor, eyes gray with a dark shade of fur 
around, same across the nose and mouth, ears about five 
inches, medium thickness, sam.e color as coat, the does are 
good mothers, and the equal of any for prolificness. 



Richey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 



31 




THE "ARGENT D'CHAMPAGNE" 
''French Silvers" 
Bred by Mrs. C. A, Richey 

DARKER SHADES 

As a precaution of too close inbreeding- and to increase 
size, a black cross has been used on some, making a hand- 
some fur even more admired than the standard color, and no 
doubt these will be admitted in time to the Standard for 
the value of the fur. 

THE HAVANA 




THE HAVANA 
A Perfect Specimen 

The Havana is a rabbit coming rapidly to the front in 
America. It is a small rabbit, being raised in France mostly 
for its fur, the color should be a rich brown, undercolor show- 



32 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 

ing a light gray, small, fine bone, head shapely, body long and 
eyes to match color of coat, showing light red in pupil, weight 
about five pounds. 



THE SILVER 

The "Silvers" are an English rabbit very little known in 
this country but very popular in England. They are bred in 
three colors, gray, fawn and brown, with a silver guard hair 
making a most attractive fur. Standard weight is six pounds, 
shape and type very similar to the French Silvers, and no 
doubt will become well known and liked in America. 




THE SILVER (Gray) 
A Handsome Fur 



ENGLISH SPOTTED 



The English spotted rabbit is a bright, pretty fellow, very 
tame, and the does are excellent mothers. They are very 
hardy and prolific. The markings are very difficult to breed 
up to Standard. They are bred in blacks, blues, tortoise and 
grays. Color of the body is pure white, mark on the nose to 
be in the shape of a butterfly. Eyes clear and bold, with color 
circle around each eye. Eyespot on cheek to be clear of circle, 
ears erect and to be free from white hairs. From head to tail 
there should be a solid color line with herringbone mark on 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 33 

each side and line of spots from neck to loin. Standard 
weight, six pounds. 

By the name we presume at once they originated in Eng- 
land, but it is so long ago that the origin is almost forgotten. 
They are fine eating and the fur is very handsome for coat 
linings, when properly matched. 




THE SPOTTED ENGLISH 



34 Rickey's Rabbit and Cav\ Book 



Breeding 



Breeding rabbits, without doubt, is a most important part 
of the rabbit industry, whether for fancy or for the market. 
Great care should be used in the choice of breeding- stock, be- 
ing sure they are perfectly healthy, and from healthy parents. 
Never breed an animal that shows any signs of disease, as it 
will be sure to repeat itself in the progeny sooner or later. 



MARKET STOCK 

If raising for the market is to be the specialty, care should 
be taken to start with a breed that will produce the most meat 
in the shortest time possible. The Flemish Giant, Giant Bel- 
gian and New Zealand are the best breeds for the market, as 
the young from these are ready for fryers at eight to ten 
weeks of age, consequently, they require much less room. The 
doe can be bred when the young are six weeks old, and she 
can remain with them until they are eight weeks old and 
ready for market. 

In selecting breeding stock, rabbits with broad backs and 
heavy hind quarters should be chosen, as such animals dress 
more attractively, being broad and heavy instead of long and 
lean looking. Choose the largest animals possible, especially 
the buck, and never breed a buck that is inferior to the does. 
If you do you will never get a good strain, and never breed a 
rabbit under seven or eight months of age, doe or buck. 
Breeding immature animals will bring weaklings, with no 
stamina or vigor, and will result in poor stock that will dete- 
riorate instead of improve. One buck is sufficient for eight 
does. 

FANCY STOCK 

In breeding fancy stock one should start with the^ finest 
specimens possible. Of course, one would have to pay a good 
price, but yovi must remember that it Avill pay in the end, as it 
is much easier to breed up to perfection, and the sooner you 
have the perfection the sooner the profits will commence. A 



Ridley's Rabbit and Caz'x Book 



35 



rabbit that wins wherever shown, is the greatest advertisment 
a man can have, and the animal will bring- a high price, be- 
sides the young one can raise from it, which is often far 
superior to the parent. By careful breeding stock can be 
improved in a short time. 




HIMALAYANS IN THEIR CUPS 
Won by Mrs. Leroy B. Hackett, Oakland, Cal. 

Shows What a Woman Can Bo in the Fancy Stock 



THE RULES OF BREEDING 



Does or bucks should be eight months of age or over, 
entirely free from blemish or disease, through moulting, or 
shedding. Does should be taken to the hutch of the buck 
and watched. One service is sufficient and brings better 
results than more. Let the doe rest a few minutes then 
remove her to her own hutch. If she will not take the 
buck try her again, every three days until she does take 
him. If a doe is too fat she will not breed. Cut down the 
feed and give her exercise. Occasionally a doe cannot 
breed ; then she is of no use and should be killed. A doe 
should not be bred more than four or five times a year. 
Nothing is gained by forcing a doe to bear more, as it 
will shorten her life and bring weaklings. Sometimes a 
doe takes a dislike to certain bucks; if this seems to be the 
reason try her with another buck, watching carefully that 
the second buck does not claw her on account of the scent 
of the first buck. 



36 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 

LINE BREEDING 

To create a strain of animals for particular qualities 
extra care is required. A pedigree must be kept for several 
generations, beginning with the most perfect specimens ob- 
tainable. The laws of heredity are the same all through 
nature, and if one is especially interested, there are books 
devoted to this particular line of work that may be studied. 
Never breed brother or sister, except in extreme cases to 
produce certain color or characteristics. Always see that 
the qualities lacking on one side are perfect on the other. 
Breeding mother to son and father 4;o daughter is the cor- 
rect way to start producing a strain of linebred animals, 
about the third or fourth generation new blood should be 
carefully introduced. 

CARING FOR THE YOUNG 

When a doe has been bred she should be kept as quiet 
as possible, and not handled. She should not be overfed, 
but should have plenty, and sometimes it pays to cater in a 
way to the appetite — for instance, a dish of bread and milk, 
a little rolled wheat or oats, especially if she is young. A 
doe bred at eight months has not her full growth, and re- 
quires a little more nutriment than the old doe, although 
one can hardly treat a bred doe too well, for on this depends 
largely the kind of young she will produce. 

There is quite a difference in the temperament of rabbits ; 
some make model mothers and others are vicious and will 
bite when you try to handle the young. Some will not allow 
a stranger to stand near the hutch, and will trample the 
young to death. Usually these does are fine mothers and 
it is well to see that they are not disturbed in any way, 
and that they have a hutch off by itself. 

Thirty to thirty-one days is the gestation period, but 
Mrs. Bunny is very particular to have everything in proper 
order, and in plenty of time, so in fifteen to eighteen days 
she starts to make her nest, and then she must have a 
clean box in a far corner, and plenty of nice, clean straw. 
She likes to make the nest herself, carrying the straw in 
her mouth, and scattering it all around the box until it is 
arranged to suit. The last day she pulls her fur, lines the 
nest and makes a nice, warm blanket to cover her young. 
When they are first born she covers them completely with 



Ridley's Rabbit and Cavy Book 37 

this blanket. If the weather is warm you will see that it is 
carefully removed, to be replaced by evening. 

In handling- the young great care must be used, as some 
mothers resent the interference, but it is necessary to put 
one's hand in the nest and feel around carefully to see if 
there are any dead babies, and they must be removed. This 
is best done about the second or third day. If you give a 
doe a handful of some nice green food, of which she is very 
fond, especially when nursing, she is not likely to pay 
attention to what you are doing, although when the doe has 
become accustomed to the regular care taker she rarely 
minds these things. 

One should always speak kindly to them, and they will 
become great pets, many times coming to eat out of the 
hand. 

The eyes of the young are not open until about the ninth 
day — soon they get out of the box and begin to learn to eat. 
The nest box should have a top, so the doe can get out of 
the way of the young for a rest. Otherwise they worry 
her terribly, instead of learning to eat. Usually at six 
weeks the young are weaned, but there are exceptions, and 
some does will nurse their young until they are three 
months old. A doe like this is valuable for raising prize 
stock, as, of course, the longer they are nursed the finer the 
young. Such a doe should have only three or four babies, 
and be fed plenty of nourishing food, and the young will 
be monsters. No doe should be allowed to have more than 
six to nurse. The undersized, puny ones should be removed 
and done away with about three or four days after they 
are born. If the animal is a choice one and bred to a 
fine buck, it is wise to have "foster mothers" or "nurse 
does." This means an ordinary rabbit, kept for its nursing 
qualities, bred at the same time as the other, to a common 
buck, and if the fine doe has more than you want her to 
raise, the surplus are carefully taken to the common doe 
and her young destroyed. If it is not necessary to do this 
the common doe's young can be kept for the table, or 
raised for market. 

When the young are six weeks old the doe can be bred 
again and then put back with the young for two weeks 
longer. By this time the young should be large enough 
for market. If not, they must be removed to another hutch, 
for the bred doe will not have them around her any longer. 

In moving the young from, one nest to another, when 
they are first born, it is a good plan to take a little fur from 
the foster mother and rub around the strangers very care- 



38 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 

fully to kill the smell of the nest where they were born. 

if the young, when old enough, are to be killed for mar- 
ket, they can be crowded, but if they are going to be 
raised for breeders, the sexes must be separated by three 
months, and put into nice sized hutches, with plenty of 
room for exercise. A long hutch should be provided with 
a hurdle for them to jump over, and shelves or boxes high 
enough for them to jump up and down. It is a good plan to 
have a run on the ground, but it must be well shaded and 
dry. Great care in keeping them out of the sun should be 
used. With fancy stock the sun's rays spoil the color of 
the fur and make it look faded and shabby. 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 39 

Feeding 



Feeding is of great importance, and is one of the secrets 
of success in this industry, for to feed market stock the 
food must be nourishing and must not be too costly. The 
grain that is the most plentiful to the location will, of 
course, be the cheapest. 

Some people feed their rabbits entirely on green feed 
and grow and thrive, but the flesh is soft and does not 
weigh like the grain-fed animal. Grain is therefore neces- 
sary, at least once a day, and rolled barley, oats, hay 
and bran, with weeds, vegetables and, in California, beet pulp 
mash, are the main feeds. Some feed all of the difi^erent 
vegetables, but potatoes are considered too starchy, unless 
cooked first. Rabbits love cabbage, but it makes the urine 
smell very strong. Lettuce contains so much water that 
it must be fed judiciously. All weeds and greens must 
never be fed wet. Lawn clippings are good, if not wet or 
heated, and great care must be used in this respect or 
sick rabbits will be the result, especially with the young. 
Never under any circumstances feed musty grain or hay. 

For the best results, feed night and morning, with fresh 
water in the middle of the day, in hot weather twice a day. 
Rabbits need a lot of water in the hot season, and to be 
successful in the warm climates this fact must be carefully 
heeded. A handful of grain to each rabbit in the morning, 
and some weeds, green alfalfa or carrots in the cool weather. 
In hot weather green only and hay in the evening, with 
some more weeds, alfalfa or grass — what you think they 
will eat up clean. Never throw greens in the hutches pro- 
miscuously. It means disaster soon or late. Remember 
musty hay, wet or stale greens, dirty water, bring disease 
and death. 

FEEDING THE YOUNG 

When the young first commence to eat it is economy to 
start them out right, and a dish of rolled oats, bread soaked 
in milk, not fed sloppy, and bran will be easier for them 
to digest than rolled barley. This is only necessary for 
a few days, unless one is inclined to feed rolled oats longer. 
It is the finest growing feed for the young, but somewhat 



40 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 




_ , ^ , QUALITY _, ,^ ». , 

SAN D£.n SON 



SELF CLEANING HUTCHES 
Designed by Sanderson and Son, Eagle Rock City, Cal. 

expensive. Some say not to feed the young hay, but that 
is nonsense. If the hay is sweet and properly cured, it will 
not hurt them. Young rabbits are more easily affected by 
eating greens than the old ones, so extra care should be 
taken not to over feed them. If the mother has been fed on 
green food it will never hurt the young. 



SALT 

All animals need a per cent of salt, it is claimed, and the 
wild animals will go miles to get it, so we think it good for 
rabbits. 

Some keep rock salt always in the hutches, this is all 
right if it is clean, but the best way is to get dairy salt, 
which is quite cheap when sold by the pound, and sprinkle 
in small quantities on the grain or mash. This is a cleaner 
way than any other and the rabbits do not require much 
salt. 



Richev's Rabbit and Caw Book 



41 



A handful of linseed meal once a month is a splendid 
conditioner. It should be given a little oftener when pre- 
paring for the showroom, but not too much, as it is loosen- 
ing to the bowels. Beet pulp mash, in the sugar country, is 
cheap and good. Pulp must be soaked for an hour or so, 
then mixed with bran and a little alfalfa meal into a mealy 
mash and fed to young and old — all they will eat up clean in 
fifteen or twenty minutes. 

Formula for beet pulp mash: One part beet pulp, four 
parts water, boiling or cold; one part barley meal, one part 
bran, a little salt mixed into a dry mash. Never feed it sloppy. 

FEEDING THE BUCK 

In feeding the buck that is being used for breeding, care 
must be used to keep him in first-class condition. Re- 
member barley is heating and fattening. Oats are better, 
and when he is being used to the limit raw eggs occasionally 
mixed with bran or bread will keep him in good condition. 
He should not be mated more than twice a week and only 
when in good condition or the young will be rough coated. 

A CALIFORNIA RABBIT FARM 




VIEW OF HUTCHES USED BY CULVER CITY RABBITRY 



42 



Richex's Rabbit otid Caz'x Book 



The Culver City Rabbit Co.'s operating plants are ideal 
in their simplicity. Through years of experience in the meat 
packing business. Messrs. Kirby and Johnson make every step 
and every dollar invested count and operate the rabbit farm 
like a miniature packing plant. The breeding rabbits are 
mostly New Zealand Reds, which produce meat in the short- 
est possible time. As the markets call for a 13^ to 2^-pound 
rabbit, they kill the meat at three months, as it weighs 2^2 to 
4 pounds alive at that age. They estimate their breeding 
stock on hand now at 1,200 breeding does and about 90 buck 
rabbits — all meat producers. 




PARTIAL VIEW OF CULVER CITY RABBIT FARM 



Tuesdays and Fridays are killing days at Culver City. 
The meat rabbits are skinned, trussed, and placed on ice 
over night and sent to the markets in the early morning. 

"One Los Angeles man, who makes a business of send- 
ing his trucks all over the city and surrounding territory 
for meat rabbits advertises continually for 1,000 meat rab- 
bits every week,'' said Mr. Kirby in explaining the big way 
in which rabbit meat has "taken hold" in Los Angeles. 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 43 

"There are two or three others who have a big trade also. 
These trucks collect the young rabbits alive from rabbit 
breeders who are raising a few or many in their back yards 
and pay 20c per pound and up — live weight. They are then 
taken to the dealer's yards, and killed at night, and de- 
livered next morning to the markets. The trouble is in 
getting the rabbits — not in selling the meat." 

The company has endeavored to cut costs in every pos- 
sible way. The rabbits are fed on oats, rolled barley, alfalfa 
hay and water. The hay is fed in self feeders and the grain and 
water are placed in heavy earthenware crocks which are 
cleaned scrupulously each week. The hutches are self- 
cleaning. Carefully kept cost sheets show that the meat 
rabbit cost ten cents a pound at three months, which is 
marketing age ; which takes into account the cost of the 
breeding stock, use of the stud bucks, losses, and labor 
cost. With rabbit meat selling at twenty cents, this looks 
very much like a fifty-fifty turnover. 

Rabbit byproducts are not overlooked at Culver City. 
The rabbit manure is sold for 15c per cubic foot to a 
Los Angeles fertilizer company who states that the 
orange growers prefer it to other fertilizers for their trees. 
Every rabbit skin is dried and sold. The larger skins are 
being reserved for tanning, and sale to passing tourists as 
auto robes, gauntlets, and the like. The offal, or waste 
from killing, is sold to a nearby hog and chicken ranch for 
feeding. "Everything but the squeal," says Mr. Kirby. 
"and rabbits don't squeal." 



44 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 

Marketing Stock 



PREPARING FOR THE MARKET 

This part of the rabbit industry is the most serious, as 
many people who are excellent care takers are not good 
business people. To be successful in making money with 
rabbits, however, requires study and consideration. 

It is not difficult to dress a rabbit, and can be done 
rapidly after a little experience. To sell a rabbit at thirty- 
five cents a pound, dressed, to private customers, is far more 
])rofitable than selling it to the butchers for fifteen to twenty 
cents per pound, alive. To the man who can guarantee a 
number of pounds every week, there are always regular 
buyers in the city only too glad to secure the meat that 
will satisfy their customers. Hotels and restaurants can also 
be supplied. 

If you want to make a business of rabbit raising, you 
must make up your mind to study the business end of it, 
and to make money requires a good sized rabbitry. 

TO TEMPT CUSTOMERS 

A nice fat, thick young rabbit, cleanly dressed, with a 
small bunch of parsley in its breast, will always bring a 
second order. It should be wrapped in a piece of white 
paper, tied with a clean, new string, or put in a carton made 
for that purpose. 

KILLING 

Rabbits are stunned instantly by a sharp, quick blow on 
the neck behind the ears. It can be done with the hand, if 
strong enough, or a short round stick. This should always 
hang in a handy place, to save time and temper. Two hooks 
at the right height for convenience should be fixed, and a 
bucket with some bran in it to catch the blood. The rabbit 
should immediately be hung by the hind legs, between the 
bone and tendon, and the head severed with a sharp knife. 
The head can be crushed and fed to the chickens, in place of 
buying cut bone or fresh meat, which is considered so es- 
sential for the laying hen, and the blood mixed in the mash 
is used for the same purpose. In Europe rabbits are al- 
ways sold with the head on, w'hich is cooked or used for 
soup stock. 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 45 

SKINNING 

The skin is started carefully by cutting with a sharp 
knife around the first joint or thigh of hind quarters, and 
worked carefully down to the middle, then cut across the 
vent and stripped ofT like a stocking, inside out. 

All pelts should be saved by splitting down the belly 
center, then stretched out and hung in the shade to dry. 
When dry they should be packed in a tighe box with moth 
balls until there is sufficient to send to the furrier or felt 
maker. Even if only a small amount is realized from the 
pelts, it is very little trouble to care for them in this way, 
and much better than burning or burying them. It is sur- 
prising how many will accumulate in a short time, and it 
should be remembered a dime saved is a dime earned, and 
ten dimes make a dollar. 

In stripping the skin be careful to leave all the fat pos- 
sible on the rabbit instead of pulling it ofif with the pelt, 
using the knife occasionally to loosen it, instead of tearing it. 

DRESSING 

Make a slit down the abdomen lengthwise about six 
inches long and remove the entrails, being careful not to 
break the bladder. Cut the gall bag from the liver, leave 
the kidneys where they are, then run the knife down the 
rectum and remove all dirt. Now the rabbit will lie flat and 
clean. Some butchers insist on having them bleached by 
laying them an hour in salt water. This is wrong, for it 
hides diseased livers and makes them mushy looking. They 
can be laid in salt water for half an hour just before being 
cooked. They must be laid or hung separately until they are 
chilled before packing. If any happen to be bloody they 
should be wiped with a wet cloth, not washed. 

ADVICE TO BEGINNERS 

Most people go into the rabbit, chicken or pet stock 
business through pure love for the work, and their fondness 
for pets. Sometimes, however, they think it a money-making 
business, but it is best to understand right from the start it 
is no "get rich quick" scheme. It takes a little capital, pa- 
tience and study to be successful, the same as any other 
business, and if one does not love animals it is disagreeable, 
monotonous work, as rabbits must be attended to regularly 
and the economy of feed, breeding, etc., studied with great 
care. 



46 Rickey's Rabbit and Cai'y Book 

The best way to begin is to get a few rabbits and work 
with them for a time, possibly a year; then you will have 
gained experience and can tell if you wish to make it a 
regular business. If this is the decision, whether for mar 
ket, fancy or fur, the start can then be made in a safe, 
business-like manner. Any one getting into a new business, no 
matter what it is, must serve an apprenticeship. Drawbacks, 
disappointments and many annoyances will come to all, one 
time or another, and one must persevere against all odds to 
be successful. 

BUY PURE BRED STOCK 

The beginner should endeavor to start with pure bred 
stock. Not necessarily prize winners, but good blood and 
pure, as this will save many disappointments and it takes no 
more time or money to feed pure bred rabbits than mongrels, 
and the thoroughbreds always sell to an advantage. 

If raising only for the market, one needs good stock that 
will develop as quickly as possible and dress evenly. 

It is also best for the novice to have only one breed, and 
make a special study of that breed. Put them in the show 
room, join a club, read all books possible on the subject, and 
he will soon be heels over head in love with the work and 
probably create a strain that will make him famous in the 
rabbit world. 

HUTCHES 

The hutches are one of the principle things to be consid- 
ered when going into the rabbit business, as cleanliness and 
care mean everything toward success, and in having them 
made in the most convenient way possible regarding feeding 
and watering the care taker secures a great saving in time 
and labor. 

Of course, the climate must be taken into consideration 
also, for where the weather is very cold in the winter, rab- 
bits must be protected, notwithstanding they will stand very 
cold weather better than when it is hot. In the summer 
care should be taken to give them shade with curtains or 
have the hutches under trees. A walnut orchard is an ideal 
place for a rabbitry, as the trees shed their leaves in winter 
and give an abundance of shade in the summer. Some build 
their hutches with a double roof, allowing 6 to 8 inches be- 
tween the two, creating a circulation of air which cools the 
lower hutch roof. This is good in warm countries. 



Richcy's Rabbit and Cavy Book 



47 



The morning sun is needed in winter to dry out the 
hutches. In most localities it is best to have the hutches 
facing the east and, if a t'ght floor is used, both ends of the 
hutch should be open in summer, and one end closed in 
winter to prevent draughts. Rabbits need plenty of air, but 
no draughts or dampness. 

THE SELF-CLEANING HUTCH 




SELF-CLEANING HUTCH 
Caldwell Bros., Los Angeles 



The so-called "self-cleaning hutch" is a great labor saver, 
as the bottom or floor of the hutch is made of slats of one 
by one and a half inch lumber, placed far enough apart to 
let the droppings through. Three-fourths of one-half inch 
wire netting is also good, especially for fur rabbits, which 
must be kept perfectly clean, for if the fur is stained it is 
impossible to remove it. 



48 



Rickey's Rabbit and Caw Book 




HUTCHES MADE AND DESIGNED BY J. K. 
Oakland. Cal. 



DOLAN 



In all hutches a shelf or box with a top should be ar- 
ranged to give the rabbits exercise, and to enable the doe 
to get out of the way of her young, who prove very trouble- 
some at times when they are being weaned. 

Some of these self-cleaning hutches are patented by the 
owners, and they can make them cheaper than the individual, 
as everything is bought in large quantities at wholesale prices. 
However, any one with a little ingenuity can make them. 
Two hutches should be made with one door only, opening 
as conveniently as possible, either to the right or dropping 
down lengthwise. Thus, one movement treats two hutches, 
a great item in time saving when tending a number of 
rabbits. 

An opening should also be made between the two hutches 
in V shaped form, with one-half inch wire mesh on each 
side of the opening. This opening must be made in the 
door also, then two huches can be fed hay without opening 
the door. 

A hand cart, with square box, filled with hay or weeds, 
pushing a handful or two in each rack as one goes from 
hutch to hutch is the most convenient way to do the feed- 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 49 

ing. The hay should always be kept in a rack to prevent the 
rabbits eating that which is soiled, which they do when the 
hay is thrown in the hutches on the floor. In places where 
hay is high priced, it is also a great saving of feed. 

These self-cleaning hutches may be made in one or two 
tiers high; more than two being unsatisfactory, as the lowest 
one is disagreeably low, and the third tier too high for any 
one of ordinary height. If they are made in tiers, a solid 
roof must be arranged over the lower hutch, well slanted, to 
allow water from the upper hutch to run ofi^, and plenty of 
space to keep them clean. Occasionally they should be 
washed off with a garden hose, and some disinfectant 
sprinkled around. The second tier should have a solid roof 
to shed the rain, and made as high as convenient to the care 
taker. Nest boxes made according to size of breed ; do not 
crowd too much or make too large. You will find excellent 
examples of hutches in the illustrations. 

FEEDING TROUGHS 

Feeding troughs are a great problem, as rabbits are very 
mischievious. If made of wood they will chew them to 
pieces, and unless heavy enough or fastened securely they 
will eat or drink a little, and then turn the dishes over, 
spilling the feed and water before they have eaten half 
enough. 

Troughs should be made of, or bound with galvanized 
iron, and fastened to the hutches. At the feed and fancier 
stores in cities are to be found wide flanged crocks, made 
heavy, so the rabbits cannot get their teeth over them. 
These are fine for the water, as they are easily cleaned and 
the water keeps cool in hot weather. 

THE IDEAL HUTCH PLAN 

The ideal hutch plan is a long shed roof, back of the 
hutches, facing the east, the front opening inside the shed. 
A walk of four feet is allowed in the center, and on the 
opposite side from the hutches feed bins can be arranged 
to hold the necessary quantity that one should buy for 
economy's sake. The water should also be piped to the 
shed, and the care taker, who is often a woman, is protected 
from both heat and rain. In summer this shed can be 
opened up, and in severe weather closed. A curtain let 
down on the outside of the hutches will keep out the wind 
and rain, and shade them in extreme heat. 



50 Ridley's Rabbit and Cavy Book 

THE MOVEABLE HUTCH 

A hutch that is very simple can be made to move into 
a field or orchard where there are weeds, or alfalfa, and 
should have the wire or slat floor. By moving occasionally 
the rabbits would almost feed themselves. These may be 
made any size that can be conveniently handled, leaving 
pieces of the frame extending out at the sides a few inches 
for handles. They should open at the top and have a movable 
stick nailed inside to hold the cover up while attending the 
animals. 

SOLID FLOOR HUTCH 

A solid floor hutch must be carefully made of tongued 
and grooved flooring, and when it has dried a floor putty 
should be used to fill the openings so the filth will not 
collect and cause disease. It is best to have them slanted 
slightly toward the back, and the space of an inch allowed 
so the droppings can run through. A board running along 
the back ten inches deep, on hinges, that will raise, is easily 
handled and one can take a scraper and draw out the refuse 
in a few seconds. The front should be made the same as 
that of the self-cleaning hutch, to open into two hutches for 
the hay. 

The size of the hutch will vary according to the breed, 
Flemish Giants needing a hutch as large again as the 
smaller breeds, such as Himalayas, Black and Tan, etc. 

The size of the large breeds should be at least four feet 
wide, twenty-seven inches to three feet high, and twenty- 
seven inches deep — or even thirty-six inches deep is better. 
For the medium sized rabbits three feet deep is large 
enough. Four feet by twenty-seven inches is easier to reach 
into, but it takes up more room, and sometimes that means 
a good deal to limited space. The Himalayas and smaller 
breeds can get on in small hutches, but it should be al- 
lowed to have as much space as possible. 

The nest boxes should be carefully selected, according 
to the size of the rabbit also, as it could not be expected 
that a rabbit weighing from twelve to fifteen pounds could 
do as well in a box fitted to a five pound rabbit. The boxes 
are much better when there is a solid top. These can be 
made like a lid with hinges to lift up, or with a door or 
movable opening in the end. enabling one to clean the box 
and watch the young. The opening should be according to 
the size of the rabbit and four or five inches from the floor. 



Riclicv's Rabbit and Cav\ Book 



51 



RABBIT WARRENS 

Rabbit warrens are a number of rabbits together on the 
ground, a raised place for them to burrow and make 
their nests. It has not been found to be successful so far 
for several reasons, but might pay in some localities. A 
run on the ground for young being raised for breeders is 
fine, with plenty of boxes for them to jump up and down 
and over, thus developing and making them vigorous and 
healthy. 

RABBITS AND THEIR FUR 

All rabbits, except the Angora, have fur, and there must 
be some attraction in the fur as an article of dress. If it 
resembles some well known fur, such as ermine, or fox, 
that is so much in demand, it is, of course, more valuable. 




COLLAR AND MUFF OF LONG HAIRED RABBIT 



To breed some of the rabbits up to this quality has been 
therefore, the aim and ambition of some of the rabbit 
fanciers in Europe for a number of years. 

The French and English have created the best known 
breeds of today, and particular attention has t^een paid 
to improving the quality of the fur, and thickness and 



52 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 



toughness of the hides. The so-called fur bearers have been 
bred with this in view, so their hides are thicker and the 
hairs set deeply and they take the dye better when it is 
necessary to dye them. Most of the fur bearers, however, 
are bred in colors that do not have to be dyed. For in- 
stance, the Himalaya, the English, the Angora, the Havana, 
the Silvers, Black Flemish and New Zealand can be used 
without dying. The Black Plemish makes a good fur when 
in proper condition, providing it is a good black, but so 
many of them are a brownish black, which spoils the looks 
and they have to be dyed, the same as the other kinds 
of poor color. 

It is possible to breed up the Black Flemish to a blue 
black fur, and a large size, and to make a specialty of this 
would prove very profitable. 



THE PELT OF FRYERS 

It is wasteful to burn or bury any of the skins of rabbits, 
as the skin of the fryers can be stretched on a line in the 
shade until thoroughly dry and packed fur side together in 
a tight box with moth balls until they have accumulated 
enough to pay to ship by freight to some large city where 
there is a felt factory. The hair is shaved off and used in 
the manufacture of felt and the skins are made into glue. 
These do not bring much money, but ever so little is better 
than throwing them away. 




GROUP OF RICHEY REDS RAISED ON THE GROUND 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 
WORK FOR WOMEN 



53 



It is profitable work for women to raise the fur bearing 
rabbits and learn to tan and make up the skins into pretty 
articles of wearing apparel. For the ambitious woman who 




^^ J 

LADIES' FUR COAT MADE BY AN AMATEUR 

wishes to make some money and cannot leave her home 
it is a pleasant and profitable employment. She can attend 
the rabbits night and morning, and the other part of the 



54 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 

work at odd times when through with her household duties, 
and will find it more enjoyable and easier than raising fryers 
for the market. It will be best to experiment with some of 
the common hides at first, as some care and knowledge will 
be required the same as any other business. The sewing 
must be neatly done, and the fur must be matched both 
in the marking and in the way the fur runs. 

To cut the furs into shape, tack the fur down on a flat 
board and carefully mark out the pattern wath a pencil. Then 
cut the pelt only with a sharp knife — not scissors — and pull 
apart. This will save the fur on the edges. To finish the 
edges run a piece of muslin one inch wide around the article, 
turn over and fasten down firmly in a hem, first laying a 
thin sheet of cotton next to the skin ; cover or line with 
silk or satin. These articles sell well, according to the 
quality of the fur, and the style and workmanship. 

There are several women already engaged in this busi- 
ness in Los Angeles and they cannot supply the demand. 
This industry is only just starting, and those who take up 
the work first will reap the benefits that come to the 
hustler. Tanning and preparing the hides will be given in 
another chapter. 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 55 

The Fur Rabbit 



HOW TO MANIPULATE THE FUR 

The fur rabbit must be fully developed before he is 
killed for his hide. Some must be older than others. The 
Himalayas are in good condition at five months, while the 
long haired breeds are in their prime at fifteen months, al- 
though they can be killed at eight months. 

To offset the time it takes to feed the larger rabbits the 
hides and carcass are much larger than the Himalayas and 
Havanas. They will dress only two pounds on an average ; 
the English will dress about four pounds. Rabbits are de- 
licious roasted or made into casserole dishes, pies, etc., and 
are far more profitable for the family table than the very 
young. The small rabbit can be used for fryers until they 
are six months old. The Giants have a heavier pelt, but the 
lur is coarser than the smaller breeds. 



SKINNING THE FUR RABBIT 

In skinning the fur rabbit care must be used not to cut 
the pelt and to get the skin off as clean as possible, as all 
the fat must be removed from the skin before it is tanned — 
it is just as well to leave it on the rabbit — thereby improving 
the eating quality of the meat, which has very little fat. 
The Himalaya skins should not be split, but peeled from 
the carcass like a stocking, and a piece of wool the right 
width, fitted into the skin without creases, fur side in, and 
put in the shade to dry. .Then it should be packed away 
carefully with moth balls in a tight box until ready to ship. 
Use a cedar chest if possible as the smell is not so dis- 
agreeable, and nothing in the way of insects can get into it. 

The long haired rabbits should be carefully skinned, the 
skin being split down the center of the belly and tacked 
on a straight board, care being taken to smooth out all the 
creases and wrinkles. Then rub some salt all over the skin 
and let it dry. A skin will clean easier and better after 
it has been salted and laid overnight, if not ready to finish 
treating, it can be laid away, fur side together, until time to 
finish tanning. Always dry the skins in the shade. 



56 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 

TO TAKE BLOOD OFF FUR 

To take blood off of fur, wash with warm water, with 
a little blueing-, wring- and lay in gasoline for an hour, 
dry with corn meal. The meal is put on the wet hair and 
the part well beaten and brushed. The meal works more 
quickly if it is heated, and it can be used repeatedly until the 
fur is perfectly dry and fluffy. 

TO RELAX A DRY SKIN 

To relax a dry skin, wrap it in a damp cloth until the 
skin is soft, but the longer the skin remains dry the longer 
it takes to soften it. If too dry to soften with this treat- 
ment, it must be plunged into warm water — not hot — and let 
remain until soft enough to work, 

TO DRESS A SKIN 

After getting the skin into a softened condition all the 
flesh and fat must be scraped off with a blunt knife, work- 
ing from the tail to the head and crosswise. If the hair 
starts, a salt and alum bath is used. A mistake is made in 
using alum as a preservative and it should not be used un- 
less absolutely necessary to set the fur, as alum hardens 
and shrinks. The salt and alum bath is applied with a 
sponge, and liberal quantities or salt and alum used on both 
sides of the skin. After the skin is hardened it must be well 
washed in warm water and then treated with the tanning 
liquor alone. Do not scrape the skin any more than pos- 
sible to get it clean. 

If the skins are greasy, they should be washed in warm 
water to which a little washing soda has been added, after 
which they should be wrung out and placed in gasoline 
for an hour, then hung up to dry away from light or fire. 

When placed in the tanning liquor during the first few 
hours the skins should be moved about to get them per- 
fectly soaked. It takes from forty-eight hours to three 
weeks to tan a skin, according to the age and thickness of 
the pelt. 

Sawdust is also used in preparing the skins. It must be 
fin*^ and perfectly clean and dry. After the skin has been 
softened and tanned, it must be dried and cleaned with 
either the corn meal or fine sawdust. Stains must have been 
removed before starting to tan, directions for which have 
already been given. 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 57 

If it is required to keep the fur side dry, the tanning 
liquor is sponged on the skin side for a couple of days, 
being sure to keep it wet. Then fold together, skin in, 
fur out, and lay aside until ready to work. It does not 
hurt the fur to be laid in the tanning solution, but it must 
be washed in warm water as described before finishing. 

After the skin is cleaned, tanned and washed it can be 
hung on the line to partly dry, and then must be worked 
until perfectly soft and pliable. Some do this with the 
hands, but the best way is to beat the skin with a rattan 
beater, such as are used in the house for cushions and 
clothes, rubbing the warm cornmeal or sawdust into the fur 
side continually until the skin is soft and pliable and the 
fur is clean and glossy. The long fur must be combed and 
brushed until the knots are removed. The skin is then ready 
to be made up. 

TANNING FORMULA 

Water one gallon, salt one quart; bring to boiling point 
to dissolve salt. When luke warm add one-half ounce of 
sulphuric acid. Skins can be laid in this, or they can be 
sponged on skin side, folded and laid by for a day or two, 
until they will work up easily into a soft, white piece. 



REMARKS 

Skins must not be left in water or the hair will fall. 
After cleaning the furs and partly drying them, they can be 
rolled in a cloth and laid aside for a short time until con- 
venient to manipulate them, which must be kept up until 
soft and dry. 

THE SHOWS 

The idea of showing rabbits in public competition origini- 
nated in England many years ago. The English have al- 
ways been intensely fond of all sports, gardening and agri- 
cultural pursuits, and the raising of pure blooded animals of 
all kinds, and rich and poor, young and old, all over the 
country are interested in some hobby. Consequently they 
have become great authorities on these subjects, and it is to 
the English we have had to go for the most of the fine 
stock that gave the Americans a start in rabbits in this 
country. But Americans can make some fine showing now 
of the different strains they have created and do not have to 
go abroad any more, unless for some new breed, the im- 



58 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 

provement in the animals that are showing here every 
year being truly remarkable, both in number and quality. 

The shows do a great amount of good, as they bring 
the best of all the different specimens together in compe- 
tition, thus enabling the breeder to advertise his stock, and 
the purchaser to see exactly what he is getting. Another 
good feature of the show is that it arouses the sporting 
blood and exertion is used to produce perfection in every 
detail. There is something in the human makeup that 
loves to excel. In raising animals for the show it requires 
skill as well as industry, for the animal, to be at its best 
for the show room, must be bred just at the right time for 
the class in which it is to be entered, and also be in the 
pink of condition. 

The fancier breeds for all these points — size, shape, color, 
quality of fur and general condition. He therefore makes 
a study of his special breed, and when he wins the blue 
ribbon he is well repaid for his time, not only in the fi- 
nancial part of the game, but as an artist he forgets to be 
mercenary in the joy and pleasure of his work. 

TO PREPARE FOR EXHIBITION 

To prepare a rabbit for exhibition choose one from a 
number and give special care to their feeding and grooming. 
They must be handled often and petted to make them tame, 
so when the judge is handling them they will behave them- 
selves, and not scratch and bite and otherwise spoil their 
chances for winning a prize. 

They must also be watched so they are the weight 
called for by the Standard, and some of the foods that 
will help to make the fur thick and glossy should be fed 
to them. As the time for the show draws near they must 
be carefully brushed and rubbed the right way with the 
palms of the hand, from the neck down to the tail and down 
the sides until they shine like satin. 

If the rabbit has a light fur, care must be taken to keep 
it perfectly free from stains, as the animal must not be 
washed. The white should be cleaned with a little dry 
magnesia sprinkled on and brushed and combed carefully. 

See that the rabbit has no disqualifications such as wry 
tail, crooked legs, or colored marks, or is shedding. If th*s 
should happen it is waste of time to bother to put him into 
the show, as he will be put aside, out of the competition. 
Sometimes a beautiful specimen will start to shed a day 



Rickey's Rabbit and Caz'y Book 59 

or two before the show opens, which is very aggravating, 
but one has to bear these disappointments and make the 
best of it, and the next time their turn will come. 

All animals showing any form of disease, however slight, 
are also barred from the show room. When you have made 
your entry be satisfied to leave the result to the judge's 
decision. No matter how fine you think your rabbit is, 
when he is compared with others the least trifling defect 
will be noticed, and a judge often has a hard time to de- 
cide on several fine specimens. Remember if you do not 
win this time, for some slight reason, maybe the next show 
everything will come your way. Courtesy and kindness in 
the show room brings its reward. 

A GROOMING TABLE 

A grooming table can be made that will be a great help 
in training and grooming your rabbit by tacking a piece 
of burlap on a stand the right height for comfort. The 
rabbit has a chance to hold itself steady by fixing its claws 
into the burlap and you will find that after the fright from 
being first handled is over, Mr. and Mrs. Bunny really en- 
joy being groomed. They should be handled gently, as 
too hard a rubbing breaks them down and they will look 
squatty. A pair of gloves can be bought for fifty cents at 
i-he fancier's stores that are nice for this work. 

CONDITIONING FOR THE SHOW ROOM 

A little extra feed when getting in condition for the 
showroom, Flaxseed cooked until it forms a jelly — some 
sunflower seeds — raw eggs — a very small quantity of red 
pepper added to the morning mash will be found to greatly 
improve the coat — also plenty of carrots. Do not get too fat 
or the animal will be spoilled for future use. 

THE RABBIT AS FOOD 

So much has been said of the food value of the do- 
mestic rabbit in the last three or four years in the papers 
and magazines that it seems hardly possible there is any 
one who does not know and appreciate this wonderful little 
animal which, for little expense and care will give so much 
in return, both for the inside and outside of the human 
family. 



60 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 

As a food for children and invalids it cannot be excelled. 
No flesh or fowl is so easily digested as rabbit meat when 
boiled or baked, and government statistics give to it a much 
larger percentage of nutriment than either beef, pork or 
mutton. The demand for rabbits in the hospitals and 
sanitariums far exceeds the call for chickens. One reason, 
also, for this is that rabbits give much more meat per 
pound than chickens, and have a very small percentage of 
fat. The rabbit is a very cleanly animal when given the 
proper care and right hutches and its food being all clean 
grain and green stufif, the meat has the finest flavor and 
quality. 

There never should be the slightest smell around the 
rabbitry, and they are entirely free from vermin except in 
some locations where there are a few fleas. But it is not 
necessary to be bothered with them very long. 

Every family should have rabbit served in some form 
twice a week, thereby saving the butcher's bill that is such 
a worry to the housewife at the present time. Four does 
and a buck should keep a family well supplied and some- 
times a few over for sale or for presents to sick friends. 
The work of caring for them should be very light, and the 
profits large. During the present time rabbits retail in Los 
Angeles at fifty to sixty cents a pound. 



Cooking the Rabbit 



Rabbit may be served in all the different ways that 
hold good for chicken — roasted, fried, potted, pressed, pot- 
pies, baked pies, casseroled, creamed in patties, minced on 
toast, jugged, Hassenpfeffer, Spanish, curried with rice, 
stewed, etc. 

But in cooking, it must be borne in mind that there is 
very little fat, and in frying and baking plenty of fat should 
be supplied. Fat bacon gives a fine flavor, and a little salt 
pork cut up in the boiling pot gives just enough richness to 
make it enjoyable. For roasting, the older rabbits that have 
been raised for the fur, are just right, also for boiling in the 
different ways. For fryers the young are used from eight 
to ten weeks old. 

The market calls for rabbits weighing from one and a 
quarter to one and a half pounds each, but they are much 
more economical and better eating at twelve weeks, when 
they weigh much more in proportion. 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 61 

THE MANURE 

The value of rabbit manure is no small item, for it is 
equal to sheep manure and after being pulverized is used for 
lawns. It retails at about $2.00 to $2.50 per sack in the 
cities, and is half the battle in raising a garden, as it light- 
ens up the soil as well as enriches it. It can be put on the 
ground .fresh from the rabbitry, providing it does not touch 
the stems or roots. When using it this way, nothing is lost, 
as the soil takes up all the ammonia that is wasted on the ma- 
nure pile. When holding the manure for sale a concrete 
floor sunk into the ground about a foot, with a shed roof 
over it, will keep it in good condition until ready to be cart- 
ed away. When preparing for sale in this way the straw 
and hay should be raked off and put in a place by itself to 
rot. This will lighten heavy soil and conserve the moisture 
in sandy soil. It is not so heating nor as concentrated as 
chicken manure. 

Rabbit Diseases 



Rabbits are, as a rule, very hardy and if properly bred 
have very few diseases. Too much inbreeding will cause 
any animal to be delicate and have young that will also 
be susceptible to different complaints such as spotted liver, 
abcesses, snuffles, etc. Most of these diseases, however, are 
brought on by filth through the carelessness of the breeder. 
If one starts with healthy stock and uses good judgment 
sick rabbits will be rare. Should serious sickness occur, 
however, it is better. to kill the rabbit and bury it deep, to 
prevent the disease spreading. 

Every rabbitry should have a hospital, and if any show 
signs of sickness they should be removed from the hutches 
at once and carefully treated until entirely cured, or put out 
of misery. 

Most of the trouble is caused by dampness, musty feed, 
wet green stuff and being crowded. 

If a rabbit looks dumpy and out of sorts, sometimes a 
run on the ground for a while will cure him. 

The hutches should always be large enough for plenty 
of exercise when the young are being raised for breeders. 

Draughts will also give rabbits a cold, and they will 
sneeze like human beings and this must be watched and 
treated before it goes too far. 



62 Rickey's Rabbit a>id Cary Book 

There are many remedies advertised to cure different 
complaints, but if it is necessary to use much medicine there 
is something wrong and one should stop raising breeders 
from such stock. A few simple remedies are all that is re- 
quired, and these should be on hand at all times, so there is 
no delay in using them if necessary. Disinfectants of some 
kind are always needed and for a large rabbitry it is best 
to buy by the quart or gallon as it is so much cheaper than 
getting a few cents' worth at a time. Those made with 
creosote are the most pleasant to use and it is well to re- 
member "An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of 
cure." 

COLD — The symptoms are sneezing at first, and after 
a while a disagreeable mucous makes its appearance. If this 
is not cured, it finally ends in "snufflles," which is the most 
troublesome of all diseases to cure. If taken in time a cure 
is easy. 

TREATMENT— Move to a warm, sheltered hutch, free 
from dampness and draughts. Have on hand oil of amber 
or eucalyptus oil. Keep some in a small machine oil can ; 
hold the head back carefully and pump into each nostril 
a few drops of the oil, keeping the head back until the oil 
has time to get into the nasal cavities. Do this each day, 
and if the animal is bad hold the nose in some warm water 
in which a few drops of vinegar have been added. Let them 
sneeze and cough good, then use the oil. It is also well to 
give a warm mash mixed with some linseed meal. 

SNUFFLES — Are caused from a bad cold and should be 
treated the same, and if the animal is getting thin and won't 
eat, kill it at once. Experience teaches that a bad case is 
hopeless, and if it starts plenty of disinfectant should be 
used all around the hutches, as the disease will spread. 

ABSCESS — A hard lump forms on some part of the 
body; if near the eye it is usually fatal, but on other parts 
of the body it can be treated and cured. Do not open the 
abscess until you are sure it is ripe, and sometimes it breaks 
without help. Cut the hair around the wound and bathe 
well with warm water and disinfectant, squeezing the matter 
out gently. When you think it is all out, wipe with soft 
cloth and put some peroxide of hydrogen on to clean it 
thoroughly. The w^ound should be treated for two or three 
days to keep it open and let the pus escape. A little boracic 
ointment put over the wound will protect it from flies, etc. 



Ridley's Rabbit and Cavy Book 63 

Feed half a teaspoonful of flour of sulphur in a warm mash 
of boiled potatoes or bread and milk if the rabbit will eat it, 
and some fresh green food. 

BOILS AND SORE HOCKS— Sore hocks are really 
boils caused from rubbing on a rough floor, or because of a 
dirty hutch. The hair comes oft' and the place gets in- 
flamed and a boil forms. Rabbits raised on open hutch 
bottoms are seldom troubled with this. Put the rabbit on 
clean, soft bedding of sawdust, and treat the same as above 
for abscess. A run on soft ground is good. Do not feed 
much grain. 

COLD IN THE EYES— This is very rare if the hutches 
and nests are properly made. 

TREATMENT — Bathe the eyes once or twice a day 
with sulphate of zinc lotion, two grains to one ounce of 
water or boracic acid, one grain to five or six ounces of 
water. Keep animal free from draughts. 

COLIC — Is caused by feeding improper food. The ani- 
mal is restless and seems in pain, and the belly is more or 
less distended with gas. 

TREATMENT — Keep the rabbit warm and give a 
teaspoonful of castor oil. If very bad, rub gently with weak 
mustard and warm water. 

CONSTIPATION— Is caused by feeding nothing but 
dry food. Change the diet to some fresh green food and 
carrots. 

DISEASED OR SPOTTED LIVER— The attack upon 
the liver is caused by a small parasite called a "fluke," which 
attaches itself to the liver and causes it to decay, and even- 
tually rot away. It is considered difficult to cure, and can 
be easily told by the difficulty the animal has in breathing. 
It will not happen if rabbits are fed carrots twice a week. 
No young should ever be raised for breeding purposes from 
a rabbit so afi^ected. 

TREATMENT — Give one grain of calomel in two doses 
at intervals of twelve hours, and feed dandelion, carrots and 
bread and milk — warm, if the weather is cold. 

POT BELLY — This is usually only among the young, 
and comes from eating wet green food, musty hay or grain. 
The body becomes swollen and the little one soon dies. 

TREATMENT — Some peppermint on a piece of bread 
forced into the mouth at the side of the jaw. Keep warm 
and feed dry feed for a day or two until the patient is itself 
again. 



64 Rickey s Rabbit and Cavy Boole 

ERUPTIONS— Little sores will be found in spots, and 
the hair falls off. Impure air and dirty surroundings are the 
cause, 

TREATMENT — Remove the cause and apply a good 
ointment. 

FLEAS — Rabbits are not troubled with any kind of 
vermin except, occasionally, fleas in some localities. Care 
must be taken to remore the bedding as soon as possible, 
and give some fresh, clean hay, or dried grass. 

•TREATMENT— If the fleas are bad, rub the rabbit with 
Buhach powder and hold the rabbit on a piece of cloth and 
the fleas will drop off and can be burned. If the fleas are 
not bad, dip a piece of cloth in 'kerosene and wipe gently 
over the fur, and they will leave. Sprinkle kerosene and 
disinfectants all around the hutches, but not in nests. 

DIARRHOEA — Caused from wrong feeding; wet, 
musty, stale food, or too much green food ; fatal if not 
stopped in time. Give very little water, and feed dry food. 
Mix some cinnamon in something they like, such as bran, 
rolled oats or bread and boiled milk. Crushed juniper berries 
are also good. 

MOULTING OR SHEDDING— Rabbits commence 
their first moult from eight to ten weeks of age, which is a 
critical time in their lives. If one wants to raise fine breed- 
ing stock extra care will pay. Some fanciers leave the young 
with their mothers until this trying time is passed. Feed 
plenty of nutritious food, such as barley meal, soaked peas, 
mash with a little linseed meal to which add a little salt. 

PARALYSIS — This disease attacks the hind quarters, 
and the rabbit has great difficulty in moving. Dampness is 
supposed to be the cause of this. The attack usually lasts 
eight or ten days. 

TREATMENT — Mix two grains of camphor, one grain 
of sulphate of iron, and a little powdered licorice into pills. 
Give every other day. Rub a little weak mustard and water 
well in along the spine and over the loins and keep warm. 

SLOBBERS — Is a running of the mouth caused by care- 
lessness in feeding — for instance, the young eat too soon 
of grain and it causes indigestion, or green food may be the 
cause. 

TREATMENT— Rub a little table salt around the 
mouth, or wash the mouth with a solution of weak alum 



Ridley's Rabbit and Cavy Book 65 

and water. For a day or two feed soft feed that is easily 
digested. 

VENEREAL DISEASE— Venereal disease or disease of 
the sexual organs is very rare, but is extremely catching 
and sometimes difficult to cure. It is said by good authority 
to be similar to gonorrhoea and comes from dirt and care- 
lessness. The rabbits should be examined occasionally and 
doubtful cases treated, and not used until all doubt is past. 

TREATMENT— Wash in warm water with a little dis- 
infectant in the water, wipe dry and spread a little ointment 
on that contains no poison. Do this every day until cured. 
If bad sores appear touch each place carefully with nitrate of 
silver. 

YOUNG DIE IN A FEW DAYS— The cause of young 
dying in a few days or weeks after being born, as the result 
of too close inbreeding, parents not being properly developed 
before being bred the first time, or the doe has not enough 
milk to nurse. If this is the case her appetite should be 
catered to by a little extra food, such as bread and milk, 
rolled oats, green clover or alfalfa. 

SCABBY EAR— Is the result of a mite called "Der- 
matocoptes," which works similar to the mite which causes 
scaly legs in chickens. If neglected ear canker will develop. 
Dirt and neglected colds are the cause of the trouble, and 
unless prevented by treatment the canker eats back into 
the head, severe inflammation setting in and after much 
misery the animal passes away. 

TREATMENT— Take equal parts of ether, alcohol and 
Peru balsam, drop with a m.edicine dropper in the ear pocket. 
One or two applications will usually cure. If very scabby, 
after the first application, lift out with something that is not 
too sharp. If impossible to get the above ingredients, take 
flour of sulphur and olive oil, equal parts. It is a good plan 
to examine the ears occasionally to prevent this trouble. 

RABBITS WON'T BREED— Trouble sometimes comes 
to the breeder by the doe refusing service. This is caused 
often by the doe being too fat; a run on the ground for a 
time is often effectual and do not feed so heavily. If this 
does not help, the doe is of no use. Sometimes a doe will 
take a dislike to a certain buck; sometimes hot weather 
makes them cranky and obstinate. 



66 Rickey's Rabbit and Caz'y Book 

AURACARIA, OR WATER BLISTER— A soft swell- 
ing under the skin, not serious and easily cured. Feed most- 
ly green feed and roots. Sometimes it will disappear, if 
it does not, it can be removed by cutting and carefully re- 
moving the sack, washing with warm water in which some 
mild disinfectant has been added. Wipe dry and paint with 
iodine. 

MANGE — Similar to mange in dogs and very rare. Dirty 
hutches and careless feeding are the cause. Eyes are sore 
and red, fur comes off in patches. 

TREATMENT — Touch places with some boracic oint- 
ment and wash eyes in solution of boracic acid. Clean 
quarters thoroughly. 

RABBITS EAT YOUNG— This rarely happens and is 
hard to cure. Some say a piece of bacon put into the hutch 
will satisfy the unnatural craving. After the second trial, 
if she still persists in eating her young, do away with her. 



Richey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 67 

Recipes for Cooking Rabbits 



In cooking rabbit one must remember that the animal 
has very Httle fat, consequently one must fry in plenty of 
fat, or, if roasted, it must be well basted; fat pork or bacon 
is the best for this, as the flavor makes it delicious eating. 

When buying rabbits for the table see that they look a 
pinkish color, and that the liver is clean and without spots ; 
then you know it was healthy and fit for food. Never buy 
a rabbit that has been bleached, as you cannot detect any 
defects, as the bleaching obliterates spotted livers, and one 
cannot tell how long it has been killed. A rabbit is much 
finer eating after it has been killed twenty-four hours. Be- 
fore cooking, let it lay in salt water for an hour ; this makes 
the meat white. Do not let it lay longer, as the flavor and 
goodness of the meat is drawn out and thrown away with 
the water. It is not necessary to do this unless you want to 
bleach it. If the rabbit is clean and healthy, it is only 
necessary to wash it thoroughly. Always season the rabbit 
with salt and pepper, according to taste, before cooking. 

Rabbit, cooked properly, is a most delicious and nourish- 
ing dish. For invalids it is better to stew or fricassee, as the 
absence of fat makes it so much easier to digest. 

HASSENPFEFFER 

Cut up a rabbit, about four or five pounds, in pieces, 
wash and place in vinegar, or vinegar water, according to 
taste, for two or three days, turning every day. Fry some 
onions in butter or suet, add a spoonful of flour, add bo'ling 
water enough to make a sauce, add cloves and pepper 
and bay leaves. Put in the pieces of rabbit, cover and let 
simmer until tender. Add liquid that rabbit was pickled in, 
as much as will make it sour to taste, a glass of red wine 
is an improvement, but not necessary. Serve with red 
currant jelly or plum jam. 

RABBIT FRICASSEE 

Cut a four-pound rabbit into joints, wash and put into 
a pot. Cover with cold water and let come to a boil. Skim 
carefully until all skum is removed, season with salt and 



68 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 

pepper, add onion or parsley. Melt half a cup of butter, 
and stir in two-thirds of a cup of flour until smooth ; stir 
this into the broth carefully so as to keep rabbit whole- 
Toast slices of bread or split hot biscuit, lay in a warm 
platter and pour the rabbit and sauce over, and serve 
with currant jelly, roselle, or plum jelly. 



ROAST RABBIT 

Take a four or five pound rabbit, take out the liver and 
lights, wash and lay in a baking pan, season with salt and 
pepper inside and out, make a dressing of bread crumbs, 
or soaked bread, squeeze dry, add a teaspoonful of butter, 
one egg, salt and pepper — dash of paprika and a little thyme 
and marjoram, work all together, fill the body of the rabbit, 
sew with twine or skewer, dredge with flour, and lay strips 
of fat bacon across, put in oven and cook for one hour, 
basting wnth fat occasionally. When cooked enough serve 
with brown gravy and jelly. 

RABBIT PIE 

Cut up rabbit into medium sized pieces, boil with an 
onion, pepper and salt, a slice of fat pork (salt) cut up in 
small pieces ; when almost tender line the sides of a 
baking dish with a light crust of pastry, put in the rabbit 
and a small quantity of the liquor, cover with the pastry 
rolled out almost half an inch thick, pinching all around 
the edges to keep in the gravy; make a hole in the center 
to let out steam, and bake until a nice brown — about an 
hour ; thicken the stock that is left with a little flour and 
serve with the pie, on the side. 

PRESSED RABBIT 

Boil an old rabbit until well done, pick out the bones, 
and pull the meat apart with a fork (don't chop), season 
with salt, pepper and celery, cut fine, mix all well together, 
boil the liquor in which the rabbit was cooked down to 
less than a quart, and add a lump of butter the size of an 
egg and a half box of gelatin, stir well and pour over the 
rabbit ; mix all together and put in an earthen dish ; cover 
with a plate, place a weight on top and set away to get 
cold. Serve with potato salad and garnish with parsley 
and jelly. 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 69 

BOILED RABBIT WITH RICE 

Take a medium sized rabbit, fill with pork sausage and 
bread crumbs, season with salt and pepper, sew up body 
with fine twine, tie legs together, put in pot and cover with 
water, slightly salted, a small onion and two small blades 
of mace. Stew very gently for one hour ; when it is half 
done put in a quarter of a pint of well washed rice, cover 
tight and let simmer until cooked. Then lift out the rabbit, 
strain the rice in a sieve, in the meantime keeping the rabbit 
hot, let rice dry a little, then put around the rabbit. Have 
a lump of butter about the size of an egg and some chopped 
parsley and drop into liquor, let boil up and put over the 
rabbit in the center of the platter. Serve with boiled onions- 

RABBIT EN CASSEROLE 

Take a young rabbit, disjoint, wash and drain, dust light- 
ly with flour, pepper, salt and paprika. To three tablespoon- 
fuls of butter or fat from bacon or salt pork add one slice 
each of onion and carrot, half stalk of celery, half bay leaf, 
and let cook a few minutes, saute rabbit in hot fat, remove 
to casserole and add one and three-fourths cups of hot 
water; cover closely and let simmer about an hour. A 
tablespoonful of sherry and a cup of canned mushrooms are 
a decided improvement, but not necessary. Celery and 
carrot should be removed when ready to thicken the liquor. 
Blend a tablespoon of flour with one of butter, moisten with 
hot liquor and add to casserole, cook ten minutes, send to 
table to be served from casserole. Mashed potatoes and 
green peas or string beans make an excellent accompani- 
ment. 

RABBIT LIVER AND BACON 

Rabbit liver makes an excellent meal fried with bacon. 
Take two or three livers, cut in small pieces, roll in flour, 
pepper and salt, drop in boiling fat that comes from the 
bacon, and arrange on platter with thin, crisp slices of bacon 
and potato marbles. Garnish with parsley or watercress. 

CURRIED RABBIT 

You need the remains of cold rabbit, or young rabbit, two 
anions, one apple, two ounces of butter, one desertspoon of 
curry powder, one teaspoon of flour, half pint of stock or 



70 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 

gravy, one tablespoon of lemon juice; slice the onion, peel, 
core and chop the apple, cut the rabbit into joints, fry these 
in the butter a nice brown, add the curry powder, flour and 
stock or gravy, and stew about twenty minutes, then add 
lemon juice- Serve with boiled rice. 

FRIED RABBIT AND CREAM GRAVY 

Take a young rabbit, eight to twelve weeks old, joint, 
wash and dry, roll in flour seasoned with pepper and salt, 
drop in boiling fat— pork or bacon gives a nice flavor. Fry 
a nice brown, covered not tight or it will steam, but if 
covered the juice of the meat stays in and makes much 
better eating. When a nice brown lift and place on platter 
(hot), shake some flour in the boiling fat, stir around with 
cooking spoon, and when brown add a pint of milk, stir 
carefully to keep out lumps, pour over rabbit and garnish 
with parsley. Serve with hot biscuit or jelly. 

RABBIT RISSOLES 

Make a nice puff paste, have some rabbit meat chopped 
fine, season with salt, pepper and a dash of paprika, roll 
out paste thin, sprinkle chopped meat on half paste, then 
double over and cut in squares ; press edges together, and 
drop into boiling fat until brown. Sprinkle a little grated 
cheese over the top after lifting them, and place on a hot 
])latter and serve with jelly, 

POTTED RABBIT 

Old rabbit can be used for this. The jars can be closed 
tight and be kept for a long time in a cool place — nice for 
picnics and lunches. Cut the rabbit into small pieces, cook 
in as little water as possible until meat falls from bone ; 
remove bones and strain liquor ; chop or mash in a mortar 
all meat, adding a tablespoonful of butter and seasoning — a 
little cayenne pepper makes a nice flavor — work into a 
paste, pack tight into jars, and seal tight. 

BRAISED RABBIT 

An old rabbit can also be used for this. Have an iron 
pot as for pot roast, cut rabbit into pieces at the joints, 
fry a nice brown in butter or fat, add an onion or two, ac- 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cai'y Book 71 

cording to size, sliced, and stir around so it does not burn, 
season and add a little water, cover tight and let simmer, 
stirring and adding a little water to keep from burning- 
When tender turn in a can of mushrooms, if possible, or 
ansome carrots can be browned with the rabbit, if the mush- 
rooms are not handy. Make some thickening with flour 
and water and stir in the whole ; be sure to add plenty of 
water before stirring in the thickening. 



RABBIT SPANISH 

Joint a young or old rabbit and cook according to age. 
Treat same as for braised, adding a teaspoonful of Chili 
pepper and half a pint of ripe olives, and a can of tomatoes, 
Spanish; thicken with flour and serve with Mexican beans. 



HASSENPFEFFER 
South German Style 

Select a rabbit not less than six months of age (a year 
old is even better). Kill and dress in the usual manner 
and hang in a cool place for two or three days. If possible 
to freeze, the flavor will be improved. Cut up the rabbit 
in suitable pieces as for fricassee, wash and dry with clean 
cloth. Rub pepper and salt well into the meat, place in a 
large bowl and pour over it one cup of wine vinegar and 
one-half cup of water. Slice two onions, two or three 
slices of lemon, two or three sprigs of parsley, two slices 
of celery root, a small piece of leek, one carrot cut in two 
pieces, one bay leaf, two whole cloves, four juniper berries. 
Place these with the meat and let stand for two or three 
days- At the end of this period take the rabbit meat, place 
in a roasting pan and pour over it three-qiiarters cup of 
melted butter or bacon fat. Let stand for about half an 
hour. Then pour over the meat a tablespoonful of the liquor 
from the bowl, including a portion of the various condi- 
ments, and a tablespoonful of soup stock if on hand. Cover 
and place in the oven to roast. When nearly done pour 
over the meat one-half cup of sour cream, and let roast a 
little longer. In roasting a good sized piece of fat pork will 
improve the flavor if roasted with the rabbit. When the 
meat is done, strain the gravy and serve with spinach and 
jelly. 



72 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 

RABBIT PATTIFP 

Take a young rabbit, joint and cook in a little water 
until tender, cut the meat into dice, remove the bones, strain 
the liquor, season, put back to boil, and add a pint of milk 
and a tablespoon of butter; thicken with flour, and put rab- 
bit cubes back in liquor; when hot pour in patty shells. 
Serve with green peas. 

TAMALES 

Rabbit can be prepared for tamales the same way that 
chicken is fixed, and one never could tell the difference. Old 
rabbits are good as they are stewed until tender- 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 



73 



CAVIES 



Cavies, or guinea pigs, as they are commonly called, are 
similar to the rabbit in their habits. They are delicious eat- 
ing, although very few people in this country have tried 
them so far, but it is only a short time since the domestic 
rabbit was considered fit for food, and the cavy is be- 
coming better known all the time, and no doubt in the near 




A HANDSOME TORTOISE AND WHITE BOAR 

future, roast cavy will be added to the menu. It is similar 
to sucking pig in flavor, that is considered such a luxury at 
Christmas time, when stuffed and roasted the same way. To 
prepare for the table, stick with sharp pointed knife and let 
bleed, then dip into scalding water and scrape the same as 
other pigs, slit down the belly and take out the offal, saving 
the liver. Lay in salt water for an hour, wipe dry, season 
and fill carcass with chopped boiled onion, bread cruri^bs, 
and a little powdered sage, dredge with flour and bake with 
sweet potatoes. 



CARE OF THE CAVY 

Cavies are very easy to care for, but must be properly 
treated and kept clean, or they will not thrive.' Their main 
food is green vegetables and grass clippings. A little stale 



74 



Rickey s Rabbit and Caz'v Book 



bread, some rolled barley or oats is enjoyed by them, but 
they must not be overfed br they will get too fat and lose 
their young. Potatoes are not good, they contain too much 
starch, and, like rabbits, they must not be fed wet or musty 
hay or stale vegetables. 



HOW TO HOUSE THEM 

Cavies can be raised on the ground, as they do not dig 
out. A runway, covered with chicken wire, small mesh, 
with a house on one end, raised a few inches from the 




BLACK ENGLISH CAVY 



ground, is an ideal home for them. They must have a dry 
place to go in rainy weather- They can also be kept in 
rabbit hutches. Many people let them run together, so 
many males to so many females. About six females to one 
male is sufficient, for too many males ruin the females and 
spoil them for breeding. They must have some small nest 
boxes and straw or dry grass for their beds. 



DIFFERENT BREEDS 

There are nine different breeds in the Standard of Per- 
fection. The Abbyssinian is an odd little animal with ro- 
settes all over its body of fur. The hair is rough and wiry 
and must not be more than one and one-half inches in 
length. Another breed that is called English (Selfs) are 
a solid even color all over, and short fur, very glossy. They 
cqme in black, cream, chocolate, blue, red and white. There 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 



75 



are also the Dutch and Himalayan, these have the same 
markings as the rabbits of that name. There are tortoise 
and white, and tortoise. Agoutis, golden and silver gray- 
Brindles are black and red mixed all over bodv. The Peru- 
vian, the oldest of all, has hair so long that one cannot see 
the head, and it is hard to tell which is the back and which 




PERUVIAN CAVY 



is the front. The fur is very long and silky all over the 
body. They come in white and different colors. 

There is no known use at the present time for the fur 
of the Cavy. There are many breeders all over the country 
who raise them as ornaments and pets, and there is a na- 
tional association the same as for rabbits, and there are 
usually a number exhibited at shows. They are used a 
great deal in this country in laboratories for medical ex- 
perimental purposes, as they are delicately organized and 
their blood comes nearest to the human of any of the 
animals. Light solid colors are in most demand for this 
work, and it is said to be quite a profitable business. 

BREEDING 

Cavies are very gentle and good mothers as a rule. Some- 
times they will eat their young, and when such is found to 
be the case, it is best to do away with them, as this bad 



76 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 

habit once formed is hard to break. 

Cavies can be bred three times a year, and of course, 
with extra care will produce finer specimens. They usually 
have about four to six to a litter, and grow very rapidly. To 
produce the finest specimens one should keep the sow by 
herself. In breeding the colors, judgment must be used the 
same as in rabbits, as like produces like. 



CHARACTERISTICS OF THE CAVY 

Blunt nose, short ears, which should neither stand up- 
right or hang down, but extend straight away from the 
head ; the eye is very prominent ; they have four toes on their 
fore feet and three on their hind feet ; the toes are free from 
web, the nails being neither long nor sharp. There are two 
peculiar things about the cavy- — they have no tails and need 
water only if fed dry feed. Fresh green food twice a day 
will supply moisture enough. 

The cavy is an animal in a class by itself, has practically 
the same characteristics of the rabbit, thrives on almost the 
same food, but does not scratch and bite like rabbits, so 
makes a splendid pet. 



ORIGIN OF THE CAVY 

To get the positive truth about the origin of the cavy 
seems an impossibility, though much has been done to se- 
cure it. Mr. Edwin F. Deickc, in "Cavies for Pleasure and 
Profit," tells us they were introduced into Europe during the 
sixteenth century by the Spanish people returning from 
South America, principally from the Peru and Bolivia re- 
gions, where the- Spanish found the natives using them as 
food. 

BREEDING METHODS 

Care in breeding cavies should be used if one wants fine 
stock, and the same as rabbits, it pays to get the best and 
raise them carefully, as the finer the specimens, the more 
valuable they are, and five dollars is made just as easily 
as fifty cents, as far as time and trouble go, and it is just as 
easy to study correct breeding, and far more interesting than 
to breed them any old way- First, sows should not be al- 
lowed to be with the boar until four months old, and boars 
should be six months old. Sows will produce on an average, 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 



77 



twelve pigs per year ; period of gestation is from sixty-five 
to seventy days. When the young are born they are fully 
developed, with their eyes open and eat before they are 
twelve hours old. The young should be weaned in three 
weeks sometimes four. After the sow has had one week's 
rest she can be bred to the boar again. Boars should not be 
permitted to be with the sows when they have young. A 
six months' old boar can be put in the pen with three or 
four sows, not more, until he is ten months old, then he may 
have six to ten breeding sows. Soon as the sows are found 
to be pregnant, they should be at once removed to a hutch 
by themselves. 





IDEAL CAVY HUTCHES 

Shelves Are Flanged and Run In and Out — Pull Out a Dirty One 

and Slide a Clean One In — Easiest and Best I Have 

Ever Seen — Can Be Made of V/ood or 

Galvanized iron — Sawdust on 

Every Shelf 



78 Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 7^ 



80 



Rickey's Rabbit and Cavy Book 




LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 






lliiiiiilllliililllllillliii 

002 845 739 ft 




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•> ^ -'^_ 



WHERE^ to buy foods, remedies and sup- 
plies is quite as important as right selec- 
tion of breed. 

At Germain's you obtain food which keeps 
rabbits in a healthy, profitable condition. 

If your rabbits are sick— we have PROVKN 
remedies to cure their ailments. An emer- 
gency shelf of rabbit remedies will prove 
the best investment you ever made. 

See Germain's for rabbit supplies of all 
kinds — reliable books, sanitary feeders and 
fountains, salt-and-sulphur spools, etc. 

For special information and advice address 
our Pet Stock Expert. 



Established 1671 

Seed & Plant Ca 

N.E. Comei'* 
Sixth ^ Main St& 

Op-p. P.B. Depot 

Los Angeles, Cal. 




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